Linen Facts: http://www.purelinen.com.au/Linen-Facts/default.shtml
Caring for Linen: http://www.purelinen.com.au/Caring-For-Linen/default.shtml
Caring for Linen: http://www.purelinen.com.au/Caring-For-Linen/default.shtml
Azo colorants are the most important class of synthetic dyes and pigments, representing 60 - 80% of all organic colorants. They are used widely in substrates such as textile fibres, leather, plastics, papers, hair, mineral oils, waxes, foodstuffs and cosmetics.
Hence azo colorants are part of our everyday colorful life, they are all around us and we could not do without them.
It allows colors with outstanding colorfastness and wide huge spectrum of colors.
Some of these dyes have the capacity to release certain aromatic amines which pose cancer risks. For this reason, the European Union has laid down legislation to prevent exposure to these hazardous amines. This implies that azo dyes containing aromatic amines can no longer be used to dye textile and leather products that may come into contact with the skin.
Please note that all the different parts of the finished product should be tested, and if there are several colors involved, it is not necessary to test them all separately. Only if the general test proves that there are banned azo dyes in the product, more tests will be needed.
Restrictions
EU legislation specifically prohibits the use of the 22 aromatic amines included in the next table in a concentration above the threshold limit of 30 ppm(mg/kg) (detection limit). Please note that all parts of a product should comply with this limit, and that this limit applies to each amine separately. E.g. a textile shoelace of leather footwear needs to comply with the limit of 30 ppm, as well as the leather parts of footwear. It is not allowed to take the average concentration of a certain amine in the complete product.
Table: List of aromatic amines according to the EU Directive 2002/61/EC
| Sl. No. | Substance Name | CAS Number |
| 01 | Biphenyl-4-ylamin 4-aminobifenyl Xenylamine | 92-67-1 |
| 02 | Benzidine | 92-87-5 |
| 03 | 4-chloro-o-toluidine | 95-69-2 |
| 04 | 2-naphthylamine | 91-59-8 |
| 05 | o-aminoazotoluene 4-amino-2’,3-dimethylazobenzene 4-o-tolylazo-o-toluidine | 97-56-3 |
| 06 | 5-nitro-o-toluidine | 99-55-8 |
| 07 | 4-chloroaniline | 106-47-8 |
| 08 | 4-methoxy-m-phenylenediamine | 615-05-4 |
| 09 | 4,4'-methylenedianiline 4,4'-diaminodiphenylmethane | 101-77-9 |
| 10 | 3,3'-dichlorobenzidine 3,3'-dichlorobiphenyl-4,4'-ylenediamine | 91-94-1 |
| 11 | 3,3'-dimethoxybenzidine o-dianisidine | 119-90-4 |
| 12 | 3,3'-dimethylbenzidine 4,4'-bi-o-toluidine | 119-93-7 |
| 13 | 4,4'-methylenedi-o-toluidine | 838-88-0 |
| 14 | 6-methoxy-m-toluidine p-cresidine | 120-71-8 |
| 15 | 4,4'-methylene-bis- (2-chloro-aniline) 2,2'-dichloro-4,4'-methylenedianiline | 101-14-4 |
| 16 | 4,4'-oxydianiline | 101-80-4 |
| 17 | 4,4'-thiodianiline | 139-65-1 |
| 18 | o-toluidine 2-aminotoluene | 95-53-4 |
| 19 | 4-methyl-m-phenylenediamine | 95-80-7 |
| 20 | 2,4,5-trimethylaniline | 137-17-7 |
| 21 | o-anisidine 2-methoxyaniline | 90-04-0 |
| 22 | 4-amino azobenzene | 60-09-3 |
Articles covered in the EU Directive
Textile and leather products that may come into direct and prolonged contact with the human skin or oral cavity. The examples of products listed are:
• clothing, bedding, towels, hairpieces, wigs, hats, nappies and other sanitary items, sleeping bags;
• footwear, gloves, wristwatch straps, handbags, purses/wallets, briefcases, chair covers, purses worn around the neck;
• textile or leather toys and toys which include textile or leather garments;
• yarn and fabrics intended for use by the final consumer.
Test Methods:
General Textiles: EN14362-1:2003
Polyester: EN14362-2:2003
Leather: CEN ISO/TS 17234:2003
Determination of P-aminoazobenzene (4-AAB)
Chemistry of aromatic amine release
Azo dyes contain one or more nitrogen-nitrogen double bonds called azo groups in their chemical structure, see Fig. 1.
-N=N -
Fig.1: Azo group
-N=N -
Fig.1: Azo group
Under reductive conditions using sodium dithionite these azo groups can be cleaved to form 2 amines, which can be schematically shown as in Fig. 2.
Fig.2: Reductive cleavage of the azo dye to form amines
Fig.2: Reductive cleavage of the azo dye to form amines
A small number of the aromatic amines are classified as being carcinogenic or potentially carcinogenic to humans. Only those few azo dyes that can release these amines upon reductive cleavage are affected. It has been estimated that less than 4% of known azo dyes structures may release the corresponding amines.
False positive results
For certain dyed goods a listed amine is detected under the conditions of the analytical test even though no banned azo dye is present in the consumer good. The amine is an artifact of the test procedure, resulting from a chemical reaction other than azo cleavage. So, care should be taken that detected aromatic amines originate from azo colorants and not from other materials such as Polyurethane.
Click here to download a test report sample from ITS.
An article by Harry Mercer published in http://www.denimsandjeans.com, analyses the current trends in denim product development and its future potentials.
Here's the link
Identifying fabric is important. More important is the comparison of fabrics. This makes us know the true quality of a fabric by differentiating it from its substitutes. The following chart gives a complete information upon different types of fabric at a glance. It gives information about the weaves of the fabric, its characteristics and the uses, the important part of comparison.
Another table is given at the bottom, which shows the comparison of only the characteristics of few fabrics. For example, water retention is very high in cotton and the lowest in polypropylene. Same with the drying time taken, very long in cotton and vice versa in polypropylene. Cotton and wool shrinks more than polyester and nylon.
Another table is given at the bottom, which shows the comparison of only the characteristics of few fabrics. For example, water retention is very high in cotton and the lowest in polypropylene. Same with the drying time taken, very long in cotton and vice versa in polypropylene. Cotton and wool shrinks more than polyester and nylon.
| Fabrics | Weaves | Characteristics | Uses |
| Acetate | Soft, crisp feel and durable. | Clothing, uniforms, lingerie, linings, interlinings. | |
| Acrylic | Durable, soft and wooly feel. | Used as replacement of wool. | |
| Alpaca | Various weaves, knits and weights. | Fine, silk-like, soft, lightweight, and warm. | Men's and Women's suits, coats, and sportswear, linings, sweaters. |
| Angora goat | Various weaves and knitted. | Smooth, very strong, and high luster. | Carpet, upholstery, curtain, and automobile cloth. |
| Angora rabbit | Various weaves and knitted. | Long, very fine, light weight, extremely warm and fluffy. | Knit wear - gloves, scarves, sweaters, etc. for children and women. |
| Beaver | Soft, silky, shiny. | Fur coats, trimming fur and fabric garments. | |
| Broadcloth | Plain weave. | Closely woven with smooth finish. | Shirts, dresses, particularly the tailored type in plain colors, blouses, summer wear. |
| Camel hair | Twill or plain | Light weight, lustrous and soft. | Coats, women's suits, sports coats, sweaters, some blankets and put in some very expensive oriental rugs. Also used in (fine) overcoating, topcoating, hosiery and transmission belts. |
| Canvas | Plain. | Mostly rugged. | Hair canvas is an interfacing material in various weights. |
| Cashmere (Kashmir) | All weaves but mostly plain or twill. All knits. | Soft, silky and very lightweight. | Knitted into sweaters for men and women, also women's dresses. |
| Challis | Plain. | Soft and very lightweight. | Women's and children's dresses and blouses, kimonos, neckties, and sportswear. |
| Chiffon | Plain. | Lightweight, sheer, and transparent. | Evening wear, blouses and scarves. |
| Crepe | Mostly plain but various weaves. | Crinkled and puckered surface with rough feel and appearance. | Depending on weight, it is used for dresses of all types, including long dinner dresses, suits, and coats. |
| Damask | Figured on Jacquard loom. | Reversible fabric with woven pattern. Sheds dirt. | |
| Denim | Twill - right hand - may be L2/1 or L3/1. | Originally had dark blue, brown or dark gray warp with a white or gray filling giving a mottled look and used only for work clothes. Comes in heavy and lighter weights. | Pants, caps, uniforms, bedspreads, slipcovers, draperies, upholstery, sportswear. |
| Douppioni | Plain. | Irregular with many slubs. It is imitated in rayon and some synthetics | |
| Drill | Twill. | Closer, flatter wales that gabardine. | Uniforms, work clothes, slip covers, sportswear, and many industrial uses. |
| Flannel | Usually twill, some plain. | Soft, with a napped surface that partially cancels the weave. Dull finish. Made in a variety of weights. Shrinks if not pre-shrunk. Sags with wear, unless underlined. Does not shine or hold a crease. | Blazers, dresses, skirts, suits and coats. Boys suits, jackets, and shirts. |
| Gabardine | Steep twill | Clear finish, tightly woven, firm, durable. Wears extremely well. Inclined to shine with wear. Hard to press properly. | Men's and women's tailored suits, coats, raincoats, uniforms, and men's shirts. |
| Georgette | Plain. | It is characterized by it's crispness, body and outstanding durability. It is sheer and has a dull face. | |
| Herringbone twill | Twill. | It is usually created in wool and has varying qualities. | Suitings, top coatings, sports coats. |
| Houndstooth | Broken twill weave. | Weaned into an irregular check of a four pointed star. | sportcoats, suits. |
| Mohair | Plain or twill or knitted. | Smooth, glossy, and wiry. | Linings, pile fabrics, suitings, upholstery fabrics, braids, dress materials, felt hats, and sweaters. |
| Nylon | Very strong, resistant to both abrasion chemicals. It is elastic, easy to wash and is quite lustrous. It returns easily to it's original shape and is non-absorbent. It is fast drying, resistant to some dyes. | Women's hosiery, knitted or woven lingerie, socks and sweaters. | |
| Organdy | Plain. | Made with tightly twisted yarns. Crispness is due to a finish with starch and calendaring which washes out, or a permanent crispness obtained with chemicals. Wrinkles badly unless given a wrinkle-free finish. | Collars and cuffs, artificial flowers, millinery, summer formals, blouses, aprons. |
| Organza | Plain. | Fine, sheer, lightweight, crisp fabric. It has a very wiry feel. It crushes or musses fairly easily, but it is easily pressed. Dressy type of fabric, sometimes has a silvery sheen. | Evening dresses, trimming, millinery, underlinings for delicate, sheer materials. |
| Oxford | Plain variations - usually basket 2 x 1. | Warp has two fine yarns which travel as one and one heavier softly-spun bulky filling which gives it a basket-weave look. Rather heavy. | Men's shirts mostly. Summer jackets, shirts, skirts, dresses, and sportswear. |
| Polyester | It is lightweight, strong and resistant to creasing, shrinking, stretching, mildew and abrasion. It is readily washable and is not damaged by sunlight or weather and is resistant to moths and mildew. | Vary, depending on blend. | |
| Pongee | Plain. | Light or medium weight. | Dresses, blouses, summer suits. |
| Rayon | It¹s drapability and dyeability are excellent and it is fairly soft. Rayon does have a tendency to shrink but does not melt in high temperatures. It is resistant to moths and is not affected by ordinary household bleaches and chemicals. | Clothing, hose. | |
| Sateen | Sateen filling-face weave. | Lustrous and smooth with the sheen in a filling direction. Better qualities are mercerized to give a higher sheen. | Dresses, sportswear, robes, pajamas. |
| Satin | Satin. | Usually has a lustrous surface and a dull back. Made in many colors, weights, varieties, qualities, and degrees of stiffness. | Slips, evening wear, coats, capes, and jackets, lining fabrics, millinery. |
| Spandex | It is lightweight and flexible. It resists deterioration from perspiration, detergent and body oils. It is characterized by it¹s strength and durability. | Athletic wear and foundation garments. | |
| Taffeta | Usually plain with a fine cross rib. | It is smooth with a sheen on its surface. The textures vary considerably. They have a crispness and stiffness. | Dressy evening wear: suits and coats, slips, ribbons, blouses, dresses. |
| Tussah | Usually plain but also in twill. | It is coarse, strong, and uneven. Dull lustre and rather stiff. Has a rough texture with many slubs, knots, and bumps. | In lighter weights, dresses. In heavier weights, coats and suits and ensembles. |
| Velour | Thick, plush pile, with a plain or satin ground, or sometimes knitted. | The pile is characterized by uneven lengths (usually two) which gives it a rough look. The two lengths of pile create light and shaded areas on the surface. A rather pebbled effect. | Dressing gowns, dresses, waist-coats. |
| Velvet | Pile, made with an extra warp yarn. | velvet may be crush resistant, water resistant, and drapes well. Has to be handled with care, and pressed on a velvet board. | Eveningwear, at home wear. |
| Voile | Plain, loosely woven. | Sheer and very light weight. To obtain a top quality fabric, very highly twisted yarns are used. Voile drapes and gathers very well. | Dresses, blouses. |
| Wool | It is very resilient and resistant to wrinkling. It is renewed by moisture and well known for it's warmth. | Clothing, blankets, winter wear. |
Fabric Characteristics
| Cotton | Wool | Polyester | Polypropylene | Nylon | |
| Water Retention | High | High | Low | Lowest | Medium |
| Drying Time | Long | Long | Short | Shortest | Short |
| Heat Conduction (Wet) | High | Low | Low | Low | Medium |
| Comfort Level (Dry) | High | Medium | High | Medium | Medium |
| Shrinkage | High | High | Low | High | Low |
| Durability | Medium | Medium | High | Medium | High |
| Colour Choice | High | High | High | Low | High |
| Paddling Suitability | Low | Low | High | Medium | Medium |
| Camping Suitability | Medium | High | High | Medium | Medium |
Source: http://www.fabrics-manufacturers.com
A paper published in the journal of The Institution of Engineers (India) by P R Wadje. This paper is an attempt to provide all basic information related to textile Industry – in the field of manufacturing, purchasing, promoting, selling and so on. The study may also be useful for intermediate level employees engaged in different aspect of textile technology, consumers and home economists who need sound guidance in the selection and care of textile products. This article covers comprehensive outline of fibers and steps involved in conversion of fiber to variety of yarns, fabric manufacturing and wet processing of fabric for value addition.
Click here to download
A website containing few notes on textile basics like fiber science, yarn science, textile formula etc. Thanks to Mr. Ganesh Babu for leading me to this site through his blog.
here's the link
A technical document from Invista on techniques of producing stretch woven fabric using their newly invented stretch fiber T-400. Thanks to Mr. Bilal Tariq, an experienced textile engineer from Pakistan for providing this document online.
Click here to view the document
Technical document from Invista on Xfit Lycra. Thanks to Mr. Bilal Tariq, an experienced textile engineer from Pakistan for providing this document online.
Click here to view the document
A document explaining the 4 point fabric inspection system in detail, includes defect types, common faults, point calculation, inspection procedure etc.
Click here to download
Click here to download
A handout document from a short course conducted by the College of Textiles, North Carolina State University.
Click here to download
A document from North Carolina Division of Pollution Prevention and Environmental Assistance that discusses everything that you need to know about knitting.
Click here to download
A note from North Carolina Division of Pollution Prevention and Environmental Assistance on various structures of woven fabrics and how they are made on different looms.
Click here to download
Twelve different facts about the flammability of fabrics that consumers should know, published by North Central Regional Extension, USA
Click here to download
The Journal is an international, peer-reviewed scientific e-Journal that publishes original R&D on all aspects of fabric technologies and their value chain from raw materials to end use products.
You can also subscribe online for free.
here's the link
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About Me
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- Sazid Rahman
Hey there!! I'm Md. Sazid Rahman. I'm a textile engineer, graduated from College of Textile Engineering and Technology(CTET), University of Dhaka. I'm a member of the technical team of Bangladesh Textile Today, a comprehensive magazine for the textile and apparel industry. The main purpose of my blogging is to share my learning experiences and all the useful and invaluable resources that i've been gathering for years now from the internet. Cause as Seneca, a Roman Philosopher said “There is no delight in owning anything unshared”. I take interest in lot of things. So i hope the resources i'll be sharing will be helpful for many.
